Capri is an island that enchants with its iconic beauty: the Faraglioni, the Piazzetta, the Blue Grotto. But beyond the glossy postcards, there's a more authentic Capri, full of history, nature, and secret corners. If you want to discover the hidden Capri, away from the crowds, here are three unmissable spots that reveal the island's true soul.
Villa Lysis: Between Art, Scandal, and Timeless Beauty
Nestled in the greenery of Anacapri, Villa Lysis is a neoclassical masterpiece commissioned by Baron Jacques d'Adelswärd Fersen. Built in the early 20th century, the villa is a celebration of beauty and decadence: frescoes, statues, panoramic terraces, and a controversial history that has made it a symbol of freedom and transgression. Today, it hosts cultural events and exhibitions, yet retains its mysterious charm intact.
The villa was designed in 1905 by the architect Édouard Chimot in Art Nouveau style, commissioned by the French poet, Baron Jacques d'Adelswärd-Fersen, who made it his home. WikipediaHe built it on land atop a hill at the northeastern tip of the island, near the site where, two millennia earlier, the Roman emperor Tiberius had built his Villa Jovis, and called it Villa Lysis in reference to Plato's dialogue Lysis on the theme of friendship and homosexual love.
The villa features a wide staircase connecting the garden to the porticoed entrance, supported by four Ionic columns decorated with gilded mosaic tiles. In the villa's garden, there is also a small circular Neoclassical temple (monopteros) featuring Ionic columns, while a small dirt path leads directly to the sea.
At the death of Fersen in 1923The villa passed to her beloved Nino Cesarini, who later sold it after a will dispute. Already in poor condition by 1923, showing obvious signs of subsidence and collapse, the villa underwent its final maintenance work in 1934. In 1985, the Ministry of Cultural Heritage and the Environment issued a temporary restriction on the property, simultaneously establishing its right of pre-emption; in the same year, the Lysis Foundation was established. In 1988, the restriction became permanent. Having remained in terrible condition for decades, the villa was restored only in the 1990s with funding from the Lysis Association and the Municipality of Capri, thanks to which it has been open to visitors again since the early 2000s.
Astarita Park: wild nature and breathtaking views
If you're looking for a corner of Capri far from mass tourism, Astarita Park is the right place.
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Astarita Park is located on Mount Tiberius, a short distance from Villa Jovis, the residence of Emperor Tiberius on the island of Capri. It's a free park with several terraces and a few paths offering spectacular views. You can also find Capri goats grazing freely in the park.
The park was created by the collector and banker Mario Astarita, but is no longer privately owned and can be visited freely every day except Mondays from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm. Located on Mount Tiberius, a short distance from Villa Jovis, Astarita Park is a large, heavenly garden where you can admire the wonders of the Mediterranean scrub and the most beautiful panoramic views of Capri.
Fortini Trail: History and Nature Along the Coast
The Sentiero dei Fortini (Fort Path) is a scenic trail that winds along the eastern coast of Capri, offering spectacular views of the sea and the Amalfi Coast. The trail takes its name from the "forts," small fortifications built in the 19th century to defend the island from pirate raids. Today, these forts are in ruins, but they bear witness to the island's military history.
The route starts near the Tragara Belvedere and extends up to Punta Carena, passing through evocative places such as the Punta Cannone and Tragara viewpoints. Along the way, you can admire Mediterranean flora, including maritime pines, strawberry trees, and broom, and spot local bird species.
The Sentiero dei Fortini is ideal for trekking enthusiasts and those who want to discover a side of Capri away from the tourist crowds. The trail also offers numerous scenic spots where you can stop and enjoy the breathtaking scenery.
To hike the trail, it's advisable to wear comfortable shoes and bring water, as the route can be challenging in some sections. It's also important to respect the environment and follow the marked trails to preserve the island's natural beauty.
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